Archives: Guy Knowledge

Professional knife sharpening – what you need to know

I recently realized just how incredibly dull my kitchen knives had become. Not only were they not cutting like they used to, but I could visibly see that there was no real edge left. I knew that I could use my honing rod all I wanted, but that it wouldn’t get me that nice edge back. So, I started searching for a professional knife sharpening service in the Boulder area.

I didn’t want to go to the mall or some big store. Instead, I was hoping to find someone out there that was passionate about knives and keeping them sharp. Someone that has an eye for blades like I do for how a bespoke suit should fit.

I ended up calling Jeff Yarrington of Shimmering Edge.

On a warm Tuesday afternoon, he picked up my sad looking knives and promised to sharpen them by the end of the week. Suffice it to say, Jeff overdelivered. When he returned my knives, I couldn’t believe how sharp they were. Suddenly, my knives were doing all the work again, just like they should be.

In the brief amount of time that he and I spoke in person, I realized that there is a lot more to knife sharpening than we all think. Consequently, I knew it would make for a great article.

So, I sat down with Jeff and asked him some questions about sharpening. I think you’ll see that he overdelivered again.

[Ryan] Jeff, what do you think is the number one mistake people make that contributes most to their kitchen knives dulling?

[Jeff] Actually, this is a more difficult question than it sounds – there are about 10 to 15 factors that make a knife go dull. So, I’m going to list my top 6 reasons. This is not a ranking because each person is different.

  •        Don’t cut on anything that is not a cutting board.

Decorative glass cutting boards are not cutting boards. They will dull your knife as soon as the knife makes contact.

Most plates are made of ceramics or glass or some other substance that is harder than your kitchen knives, don’t cut on them except with your steak knife (steak knives should be serrated).

If you ding your knife on your granite kitchen counter, you have likely dulled the contact spot.)

  • When preparing food don’t use the edge of your knife to slide food, just cut food out of the way. Turn your knife over and slide the food with the back spine of your knife.  I can tell if a person is left or right handed if my customer has this habit.
  • Don’t use knives for anything except their intended purposes, especially paring knives. Paring knives are very thin knives and are not meant for impacting cutting boards. If you use a paring knife as your chef knife, it will dull quickly.
  • The amount of use. It’s simple, the more you use your knife the faster it will dull.
  • Not honing, also known as steeling your knife or honing/steeling improperly.

The type of steel and how hard that steel is made is a big factor on edge retention. Higher quality knives will usually have a longer edge retention.

I think it’s easy for most people to not realize how dull their blades have become until they are really dull. Is there any schedule you’d recommend for general maintenance sharpening?


You can see from my answer to question 1 that one schedule doesn’t fit everybody. The bottom line is when you hone or steel your knife correctly and your knife still won’t cut through your food easily, then it is time for a sharpening. I would say that for home use, many people’s knives will last between 6 months to a couple of years depending on the factors in question 1 and other factors that were not listed above.

Can you tell us a bit about your process? In other words, are all blades sharpened the same way? What is it that you do that I can’t do at home with my honing steel?


Honing steels are not sharpeners unless they are diamond impregnated or made of ceramic. So the steel that comes with sharpening blocks is made to realign the edge of your knife. Many manufacturers call them sharpeners, but they are not. So, as you use your knife the edge will get bent over to both sides of your blade and this is why a hone seems like it sharpens your knife at first but later doesn’t seem to be sharpening at all.  Well, it was never sharpening in the first place.

My quick philosophy on sharpening knives:

I like mountable, repeatable precision. I do not like high-speed methods. Such as, high-speed grinders and high-speed band sanders for sharpening the edge of blades. They will get your knives sharp but can very easily remove more steel than is necessary and overheat and damage the temper of a knife, which weakens the knife. Usually, a good sharpener won’t let that happen. Hand methods are fine if you are highly proficient, but mountable repeatable systems are best in my opinion. With mountable repeatable slow speed systems, you can better control how much steel is removed and with the higher levels of precision. These methods do take a bit longer, but I’m more about quality than quantity.

Most of the knives are sharpened with my two main methods; the WickedEdge system or the Tormek, but there are exceptions even to these two methods.

For most knives, I use the Tormek slow wet grinding sharpening system. The wheel on this system only rotates at 90 rpm. I use two Tormek machines in my process. The first is used as the main sharper and is almost always set to 1000 grit which is a pretty fine starting grit. Starting at this level of refinement is slower, but gives me great control on the amount of steel being removed. Also, 1000 grit is the level of refinement that most knife manufacturers sell new knives at.

I can go as low as 220 grit for knives that are in really bad shape, but even the dullest of knives don’t usually require this course of a grit. I then use the second Tormek with a very fine grit Japanese Water stone. This stone polishes the edge to a mirror finish and leaves the knife razor sharp with a scratch pattern smaller than 3 microns. The last step of this method uses the leather honing wheel, but since the Japanese Water stone polishes the edge so well I only need to use a very light touch to remove whatever microscopic burr is left over from the polishing step.

The second sharpening method I use is the WickedEdge sharpening system. This is a mountable and repeatable hand method I use in conjunction with a digital angle gauge. I like to call the method the perfectionist method. I use this method for people who what the best sharpening that can be found anywhere. Since the degree of precision is at 1/20th of a degree on every pass of the sharpening stone, this method has the best control of steel removal possible. Also, with this system, I can refine a blade all the way down to 0.5 microns and smaller. Usually, only straight razors need to go to this level of refinement.  As you might expect this method is slower so does cost more, but you can’t get any better than this method. If you are super particular of your knives this is the method for you.

before sharpening


after sharpening


What are you doing differently from the kitchen stores in the mall or anyone else that promises a sharp blade in no time at all?


If you are using someone that can sharpen a knife in a couple of minutes, they are using methods they know will get to new steel as quickly as possible and most likely are removing more steel than is necessary. This knife will be plenty sharp, but if you have an expensive knife and you want that knife to perform as much like it did when it was brand new then these fast methods are not what you want for your knife.

I have compared some of my competitor’s knife sharpenings using a digital microscope against my own and see that I bring the knives I sharpen to a higher level of refinement. What’s this mean to you? A more refined edge lasts longer and does less tearing to your food, which translates into food staying fresher longer.

You might ask, “Isn’t removing metal what we want when we sharpen”?  Here is why you want to remove as little as is necessary.


Brand new knife is on the left.  The middle knife has had a few sharpenings and the right one shows a few more. How many? Who knows? The point here is as your knife is sharpened more and more it moves up into a thicker and thicker part of the knife blade. I just chopped the tops of to make my point. You can see that your knife will never perform exactly as it did when you first purchased it. Without what is called “thinning a blade” it would become more like a cleaver than a chef knife. This is a  phenomenon that we sense when our knife isn’t cutting the same as it did when we first purchased it. After a few sharpenings without thinning, it will never perform the same. Thinning will keep it close to its original performance, but not exact.

Wrap up


Are you wondering just how sharp your kitchen blades are right now? Or maybe the axe in the garage? Speaking from personal experience, if you can’t remember the last time you had them sharpened, I think you’ll be amazed at how sharp they could be if you were to give Jeff a call for his professional knife sharpening services.

Overall, I couldn’t be more impressed with Jeff’s work and his level of professionalism. There’s a lot of passion behind what he does. If you have questions about the sharpening process, believe me, he has answers!

You may contact Jeff via his website, Shimmering Edge, or via his email:

By Ryan Wagner 

Did you enjoy this post? Sign up for our twice monthly newsletter and stay in the loop on all things sartorial and otherwise.

Has Boulder changed for the better?

Boulder seems to be all over the news these days. Either because of something in reference to the housing market or yet another “best of..” list. As an on-again-off-again Boulderite, I thought I would offer up my spin on the subject of how Boulder has changed over the years.

Aside from childhood visits, I first spent any real time in the city when I attended graduate school at CU almost 10 years ago (yikes!).

In some ways, I suppose I’m a typical Boulderite. After all, I’ve raced an Ironman, I eat kale salads, and I have prayer flags in my apartment that I picked up in a far-off Himalayan nation. Compared to the Boulder of my school days, some things have remained the same while others have changed considerably.

Something that hasn’t changed much is the relative level of fitness of us Boulderites. As of 2014, Boulder has the lowest obesity rate in the nation at 12.4%. And walking around town you’d be tempted to say that that percentage seems high.

In addition, I’ve stopped counting the number of times I’ve seen Boulder listed as a “best of” place to live. It’s a recognition that I’m quite proud of, to be honest. Boulder really is a lovely place to live.

After all, there is plenty to like if you’re an active person. The foothills are at your doorstep with plenty of hiking and trail running available. Cyclists have several canyons and road rides from which to choose. Race opportunities abound from triathlons to foot races to the controversial Naked Pumpkin Run. There’s something for everyone.

Lately, what many of us have been hearing about is how the area’s housing market has changed. This is where things start to get interesting. In November of last year, the average list price for a four bedroom, two bathroom home in Boulder crossed the $1 million mark(1). This earned the city an exclusive spot in the top 1% of the nation’s housing markets. Compare this to the state average of $418,344 and you can begin to see the growing disparity. And a quick survey of rental prices confirms that Boulder is becoming an expensive place to live.

Fanning the flames of the housing market is the startup scene. According to Inc Magazine, “As recently as 2013, Boulder was found to have the highest density of tech startups nationwide, according to a report from the Kauffman Foundation. It even housed twice as many companies per capita as San Jose, Calif., the No. 2 hub.” With roughly 3/4 of the population claiming a college degree, a unique mix of federal and private laboratories nearby, and a healthy venture capital scene, it’s not hard to see why Boulder has become such an attractive place for would-be founders to set up shop.

Walking down Pearl Street offers up a unique dichotomy: There is the usual crowd of shoppers and tourists filing in and out of Snooze and Topo Designs, but scattered in between the trendy shops and cafes are countless office spaces filled with heads-down millennials busy building their empires.

Consequently, Boulder has become a very competitive place. The rhythm of life here is almost akin to a two-sided coin. One side is about working all day every day whereas the other side is about making sure you can still get out to hike before work or go for that 30 mile bike ride in the early evening.

So, what does all of this mean?

Well, if you’re looking to buy a home in the area, you’ll probably spend more than you want to.

Alternatively, if your aim is to build a business or build valuable professional connections, Boulder is a great place to be. There is an ever-growing mix of interesting people pouring into the area, each bringing with them their unique backgrounds and worldviews. I’ve met a lot of unique people in the area and everyone has a story. And of these transplants, they are all so happy to be here. I think that’s a great thing. However, Boulder still struggles with a lack of economic and racial diversity. As home prices continue to rise and the tech industry grows, the working class is being pushed out.

Remember those bumper stickers that said “Keep Boulder Weird” ?Today’s version of Boulder isn’t entirely unrecognizable from the old. You can still grab an excellent latte almost anywhere in town, you can wear workout clothes just about anywhere (not saying you should! 🙂 ), and the Pearl Street Mall continues to be the best place to people watch and see just how weird the town still is. Overall, the weirdness may look a bit different these days than it did in the early 2000s, but it’s still there.

Boulder has certainly changed a lot in just the past 5 years and it will continue to change in the future. Into what, I don’t know, but it will be fun to watch.

By Ryan Wagner


Further reading

(1) Men’s Journal: Is Everything better in Boulder

(2) Gallup: Boulder, Colo., Residents still least likely to be obese

(2) Denver Post: Boulder real estate hits top 1 percent of country’s most expensive markets

The story behind Father’s Day

Father’s Day gift guides just seem so trite, don’t they?

So, as a history buff, I thought I’d take a different approach and investigate the holiday’s beginnings. After all, we all know that Father’s Day happens sometime in June, but since when? And did it come before or after Mother’s Day?

Starting with the latter, yes, it came after Mother’s Day.

Two months after the first Mother’s Day was celebrated, a woman named Grace Clayton organized the first observance of a Father’s Day on July 5, 1908 in Fairmont, West Virginia. Clayton’s father had recently passed when the occurrence of an unprecedented mining disaster brought the topic of fatherhood front and center.

In nearby Monongah, our nation’s worst mining disaster happened on July 6, 1907. The incident claimed the lives of 361 men, 250 of which were fathers. Clayton collaborated with her pastor, at what was then the Williams Memorial Methodist Episcopal Church South, to organize a celebration to honor fathers.

Father’s Day didn’t take off right away.

Fast forward to 1910, on the other side of the country in Spokane, Washington, and a woman by the name of Sonara Dodd caught wind of Clayton’s celebration that was held several years earlier. In a similar way, she teamed with her local pastor, who turned out to be a bit influential in the area, and by the third Sunday of June, Father’s Day was celebrated city wide.

It continued to be a local celebration up until the 1920s when Dodd moved away. Simply put, without her around to push for it, the holiday faded into obscurity. Fortunately, she returned in the 1930s and that’s when things really picked up. This time she teamed with manufacturers of tobacco pipes, neck ties, etc – people who would have a commercial stake in the national holiday. And by 1938, the Father’s Day Council was founded by the New York Associated Menswear Retailers organization, with the goal being to promote the holiday.

The general public was at first a little apprehensive to accept the new holiday and viewed it as both a weak attempt to recreate Mother’s Day and as a holiday more interested in the commercial gain of vendors than the celebration of paternal bonds.

It wasn’t until 1966 that President Lyndon B. Johnson wrote a proclamation designating the third Sunday in June to be Father’s Day. Six years later President Nixon signed it into law in 1972.

I find it interesting that the only reason Father’s Day gained momentum and is even celebrated today, is because of the persistent effort of one person. That’s pretty cool.

Today the holiday is recognized by 62 other countries. From Turkey to Sri Lanka to Kenya, father’s have been the proud recipients of gifted socks and homemade cookies (or equivalent) the world over :).

And this year, the holiday is estimated to spur in the neighborhood of $14.3 billion in spending. That’s billion with a ‘b’. There’s no doubt that the holiday has become commercialized. In fact, Congress originally rejected the day as a national holiday for this very reason. This was back in 1916.

Regardless, I think it’s up to you. Whether you provide a physical gift this year or something less tangible, I think a gift that is thoughtful and carries some real meaning is what matters.

Happy Father’s Day everyone!

By Ryan Wagner

Further reading

Wikipedia: Father’s Day

Business Wire: Father’s Day spending

What is a full canvas suit? How is it different from fused?

fused construction sport coat

There’s a horse in your suit jacket, did you know that? Well, if your suit jacket is constructed with what’s called canvas, then the statement above is true to an extent. So, what is a full canvas suit?

This week, we’re talking suit construction. More specifically, we’re talking about what I would call the very foundation of a suit jacket – whether the suit has a fused or canvas-style construction.

This is important because the drape and “hang” of your suit will be directly impacted by its construction technique. This includes how the suit conforms to your body over time and how it will stand up to dry cleaning.

Is one method inherently better than the other? Well, it really depends on what your needs are.

Canvas construction

On our suits webpage you may have noticed that we offer what is called canvas horse hair construction. So, what exactly is that?

Horse hair canvas is springy, but strong and resilient, and is used to develop that “soft roll” when shaping garments. This is in stark contrast to a crease – something that is common in off-the-rack suits.

It’s actually made from horse hair that has been fused together to create a thin sheet. Much like your suit fabric, it’s cut to the appropriate pattern and then stitched with the fabric. Since we are a Colorado company, allow me to explain this further in terms of cold weather coats. When you buy a warm ski jacket, you’re generally going to have two parts – the outer shell (water and tear resistant) and the inner layer that is more about keeping you warm via insulation. Similarly, men’s suits typically have two layers – the outer wool fabric and the inner canvas. The job of the canvas is to keep the shape of the suit.

what is a full canvas suit

The takeaway is that horsehair canvas has some integrity. That it stands up on its own (say, when folded over) and will help give your suit jacket some life.

And at BE, our canvas construction is always treated with cold water to keep the canvas from shrinking.

Fused construction

Many manufacturers have gone the way of fused construction. This method involves fusing an interlining to the woolen shell. Early industry attempts at fused construction have led to mixed results. Critics like to point to “bubbling” in jackets – a phenomenon that occurs after repeated dry-cleaning where the fused material will delaminate (the glue losing its adhesion) resulting in an unsightly rippling of the fabric.

But like so many things in life, a fused jacket is not just a fused jacket. That is, some manufacturers have developed very adequate techniques for manufacturing fused jackets.

At BE, we are very pleased to say that our fused jackets have never shown any signs of bubbling. They have shown excellent shape and contour.

The difference

So, what does all of this really mean? If you’re in the market for a suit, you’re going to need to make a decision. If you’re on a budget, then a fused construction will save you some money and still serve as a great introduction to bespoke suiting.

However, to get the real experience of what a fine suit can be, we recommend opting for a full-canvas construction. The coat will have life, hold its shape superbly, and best of all, it will conform to your body after repeated wearings.

Wrap up, what is a full canvas suit?

If you’re looking for the best looking suit available, one that will conform to your body and last a very long time, then there’s no doubt that a full canvas suit is the best pick. There’s a lot of history behind horse hair canvas construction, and the fact that industry is still manufacturing men’s suits in this way, is a testament to the inherent quality behind a canvassed suit jacket.

Have more questions on this topic? Here’s how to get in touch with us.

Further information

Fused vs. canvas suits – The Art of Manliness