Archives: Suits

How to spot a custom suit – 4 subtle giveaways

liner-and-construction

Custom suiting for men has certainly grown in popularity over the past five years. Many men are discovering the advantages of buying a custom suit or tuxedo that’s made for them, and as individual as their own signature.

As you can imagine, there are many, many attributes of a suit that can be customized when you shop bespoke, but there are four that I would call the tell-tale signs of a bespoke suit. These are subtle things that are almost exclusive to the world of men’s custom clothing.

Does it fit?

Obviously, fit is the most important thing. You’ll know a good fit when you see it.

The sleeves will be of an appropriate length, the body shaped and neatly contoured around the torso, and the shoulders right where they should be. Less obvious to the untrained eye, will be that the jacket lapel lays flat on the chest and without a gap between the shirt collar on the back of the neck.

Working sleeve buttonholes on a custom suit

Working sleeve buttonholes (surgeon cuffs) are a throwback to the old days, when all jackets where bespoke and had functional buttonholes on the sleeves.

Historically, military field surgeons wore jackets that they could roll up when helping a wounded soldier in the field. At one point in time, many of these surgeons lived in Saville Row, London. When the tailors moved into the neighborhood, a little cross pollination happened that resulted in working buttonholes becoming the norm on men’s suiting.

Pick stitching

Pick stitching is often neglected on off-the-rack suits. It’s labor intensive (when done right) and somewhat difficult to do well. It’s easiest for most manufacturers to simply forget it altogether.

But that’s a shame, because pick stitching is a subtle detail that can really add some life to a men’s jacket. Look for it along the lapel and pocket flaps.

Pattern matching over pockets

This is something that you have to look closely to see. What you are looking for is that with patterned fabrics (plaids, stripes, etc), do the pockets line up with the rest of the shirt? In other words, was the pocket fabric haphazardly sewn on or was care taken during this process to line up the pattern on the pocket with the rest of the suit or shirt?

signs of a good custom suit

Scottsdale style: The T-shirt and sportcoat combo

custom suits phoenix

The T-shirt and sportcoat pairing is one of those sartorial risks that few take and even fewer can pull off. And that’s too bad because it can really be a cool look.

From my personal experience, it’s clear that a lot of men feel that the T-shirt combo is a “young man’s game.” While most of these “young men” think that it’s too fashion forward for them. Indeed, I’d agree that it’s a relatively high-style look, but only when done properly. And doing it properly is very important.

So, with this blog post, I want to take a close look at Brett’s outfit in the above picture and explain his styling.

But first, let’s explain the background. Brett was on a recent business trip to Scottsdale. If you’ve been following us on social media you’ll know that we are in the midst of expanding our business into the Scottsdale area. Although the temperature is starting to cool down in Denver, it’s still very warm in Scottsdale. This was the driving factor behind Brett reaching for a T-shirt that day.

Now, wearing short sleeves under a jacket is a great way to stay cool when the temperature rises. There’s no need to frown upon it as a style no-no, so long as it really is a warm day. Long sleeves will have a tendency to trap heat around your arms, even when you unbutton the cuffs. This is why when it gets really warm, you may want to consider ditching the sleeves altogether. If we were to go a step farther, we could apply this thinking to the neckline because a typical cotton shirt collar will also have a tendency to trap heat. However, I admit that this may have a rather trivial impact for most men. Nevertheless, removing that extra fabric from your shirt by wearing a T-shirt instead is one more thing you can do to help stay cool.

Let’s talk about the T-shirt.

Brett is wearing a black striped white shirt. The white background is appropriate for a daytime appointment and the monochromatic nature of the shirt is classically stylish.

And the jacket?

Believe it or not, Brett’s really proving the versatility of his wardrobe here. This jacket is one of BE’s finest fabrics and has carried Brett through some elegant events. It’s a wool fabric, which you may be thinking would be too warm for Scottsdale, but as one of our better fabrics, it’s actually very breathable. The herringbone pattern is both textural and dressy. The blue lapel button hole is a nod to his pants.

scottsdale mens clothing herringbone jacket

The pants are dark in color and provide lengthening to the overall look. Anchored by the neutral hue of his sportcoat, our attention is directed to his shirt. Like all suit jackets, the V-shape of the lapels direct our eye up to the face.

Finally, the casual cotton pocket square is a floral pattern that nicely refers to his shirt and the warm weather.

scottsdale mens clothing pocket square

And of course, all of his clothes fit they way that they should.

Wrap up

The T-shirt and sportcoat look may be tough to pull off, but don’t let that stop you from trying. Keep your T-shirt simple. Nothing too distracting. Nothing with logos or anything that’s too bright.

As for the jacket, keep the tones lighter during the day and darker at night.

And remember, just because no one else is doing it doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t or couldn’t. If anything, it’s an opportunity for this Scottsdale style to set you apart from the pack.

By Ryan Wagner

scottsdale style mens custom clothing

Unique suit linings from Bespoke Edge

suit linings from bespoke edge

For some time now, Ron has been searching high and low for some unique suit linings. A task that when you start looking, you begin to realize is not easy.

Fortunately, we made some new contacts during our trip to the Custom Tailors & Designers event in New York last month. And this past week, we received some really amazing jacket lining books.

unique suit linings

Nothing in these books is ordinary. Complex patterns and graphic prints are the norm. Lots of color too.

And remember that with the lining you don’t really have to match it to the jacket. It’s truly your opportunity to exercise your creativity. For instance, if you have a need to build a relatively conservative suit – say, one without accent button holes or fashion forward peak lapels – try choosing a lining that really speaks to your soul!

Personally, I usually go with something with blue as the secondary color since I have an affinity for blue pocket squares. This is my way of subtly referring to my jacket.

But I have been known to throw caution to the wind…

unique suit linings

I’d recommend forgetting all about matching and instead, going for the lining that in a split second makes you say “Wow!”

That’s your lining.

You didn’t choose it, it chose you :).

unique suit linings and unique sportcoat linings

The fabric

The bottom line is that our selection of jacket linings has significantly improved this month. In all, we have over 100 swatches in two books. Many of these lining fabrics are made of the superb Cupro Bemberg material.

Bemberg is a type of rayon that is commonly found inside most high-end bespoke suits. It’s Japanese made and feels a bit like silk, but it’s more breathable and durable than somewhat tear-prone silk. Interestingly, it’s actually made of cotton, but the makeup of the fiber has been changed to give it the unique properties.

Wrap up

Bottom line: If you’re bored of the same old suit linings give us a call today and take a look at some unique suit linings you won’t find anywhere else.

By Ryan Wagner

 

BE is proud to offer men’s clothing in Scottsdale

We have a big announcement for you…Beginning in September, we will be regularly offering our men’s clothing in Scottsdale. That’s right, the full Bespoke Edge experience is coming to Arizona. And for the area in general, we are pleased to be another option for custom suits in Phoenix.

First, some background: Part of the extended BE family resides in Scottsdale and has quite a long heritage in the area. As you can imagine, Ron and Brett and I have all been spending more time in Arizona lately.

Brett and Ron have found their favorite watering hole and I have found my hands-down favorite coffee shop. But most importantly, we have discovered a wonderful city. One with great food, beautiful golf courses, and great people that are looking for authentic bespoke suits.

How will we do it?

Beginning on September 17th, we will begin regular trips to the Scottsdale area. You can learn about these trips in two ways.

  1. Follow us on Facebook or sign up for our newsletter.
  2. Send us a direct email at questions@bespokeedge.com and let us know you’re interested. We won’t put you on our newsletter list, but we will send you a direct email when we have an event coming up.

Regardless of how you learn about our fitting events, just send us an email, click “make an appointment“, or give us a call at 970-231-4588.

At some point, we’ll have a quick conversation on the phone to not only learn more about what you’re looking for, but also to tell you more about our process and offerings.

men's clothing in scottsdale

Our events will be held at one of Scottsdale’s most prestigious hotels. We’ll take you through the entire Bespoke Edge process. In other words, you’ll have access to all the same fabrics and options that our Denver clients do. It’s very important to us that we bring you the true bespoke experience. There are already some options for men’s clothing in Scottsdale, but we are confident that our process will set us apart, just as it did in Colorado.

At your appointment, you’ll have an opportunity to look over all of our fabrics, choose your customizations, select buttons, etc. Long story short, you can have a lot of control on the design, including custom monogramming or finding a personal suit lining. We’ll guide you through the process and let you decide as much or as little as you like.
Then, we’ll take upwards of 20 measurements and have a conversation with you about how you want your suit to fit. Much of what we do is an art form, it’s why no one else can do what we do. And based on the look and feel that you’re going for, we’ll make sure that we provide the appropriate allowances and get you that perfect fit. You’ll want to budget around 2 hours for your fitting.
Around 6 weeks later, the suit will be ready. We’ll deliver it to you at our next Scottsdale event and ensure the fit. In the rare case that we need to make some adjustments, we’ll work with our local tailor and have everything ready for you in about a week.

And remember, should you decide to come visit us, you are by no means under any obligation to purchase. And it’s perfectly OK to just drop by and say hello.

Our promise

We want to make it very clear that what’s most important to us, is building positive, lasting relationships with our clients.

We believe that it shouldn’t be difficult for you to look your best, that your personal style is a reflection of who you are as a man. And your bespoke clothes are in some ways the modern day equivalent of your suit of armor. The way that you dress is an important part of your personal brand – and that’s what we want to help you find.

We realize that custom clothing may be a big step for you. If you put your trust in us, we will do whatever it takes to ensure that you’re happy with your purchase. Your clothing isn’t right until you say it is.

It’s not only our pleasure, but our privilege to be expanding into Arizona. We are very excited to offer the best custom suits in Scottsdale and Phoenix.

We look forward to meeting you!

By Ryan Wagner