Archives: scottsdale custom suits

Spring style trends for men — 2017

unique fall blazer denver custom suits and one for spring style trends for men

Spring is on the way, gentlemen. And in recent weeks it has certainly felt like it has already arrived here in the mile high city. Brett was recently in Scottsdale where the mercury is already approaching 90 degrees! Suffice it to say, it’s time we started thinking seriously about spring style. Here’s what we’re predicting will be key spring style trends for men in 2017:

V-neck sweaters

As we transition into the warmer weather, the venerable V-neck, in a nicely breathable merino wool, should be your go-to. However, the key difference between this year’s V-neck sweaters and those of past years, is that the V-shape is getting deeper. That means a sharper angle and a more masculine look.

Whether you wear a T-shirt under it is your call.

More colorful suits

While a good charcoal or navy suit will always be in style, this year we’re starting to see more patterns and color in our suiting. Pick something in a thoughtful shade of green or purple to start. A plaid pattern is a great way to ease your way into things. Pair a suit like this with a solid dress shirt and you just created your Spring/Summer 2017 uniform!

Double breasted jackets

Yes, double breasted suit jackets are coming back! We’ve kept a close eye on them over the past couple years — a couple here, a couple there — but they’re definitely on the rebound. Just promise us that you’ll always remember to button your jacket while standing (sigh).

Shorter beards and longer hair

That’s right, our grooming is headed in different directions. A shorter beard and/or 5:00 o’clock shadow will lead the pack this year while longer and more wavy hair will push up against the close-cropped and shaved hipster styles that have been popular in years past.

Spring style trends for men

There you have it. Our succinct prediction for 2017. Did I miss anything? Anything you want to add? Let us know today!

And don’t forget to sign up for our twice-monthly newsletter. We only send you the content worth consuming.

Thanks for reading!

Thoughts on cashmere suit fabrics

Every so often we receive an inquiry on our cashmere suit fabrics. Much of the time, guys are simply curious whether we even offer them (we do), because so many retailers do not.

Looking back through my old archives, I see that I’ve never written on the subject before! With fall approaching, I think it’s timely to write some words on the topic.

First of all, if you’re lucky enough to have a cashmere sweater in your closet, then you already know just how soft and comfortable they can be. Nothing else seems to come close in terms of luxury and warmth. A high quality cashmere garment can also last you a very long time – and even grow softer.

But all of this comes at a price. I would categorize high-end cashmere as investment clothing and so we should carefully approach this topic of cashmere suiting.

If you’re considering the purchase of a cashmere suit, you’ll need to decide if 100% cashmere is best. Or, if you should be eyeing a blend instead.

Let’s talk a little about cashmere itself, before looking into its functionality as a suiting material.

Cashmere is a type of wool, but one that is exceptionally fine and soft. It addition, it is very strong and light. Perhaps most interestingly, when compared to sheep’s wool, cashmere provides about three times the insulating power.

Cashmere wool is the fine undergrowth fibers of a cashmere goat from the cold plateau of China’s Gobi Desert. Each spring a goat will shed this insulation, but it will take around 3 cycles for a goat to produce enough wool for a single sweater. It’s worth noting that the cashmere is combed from the goats, not clipped. But not all of the fibers are created equal. The longer fibers are deemed higher quality and will find their way into your luxury sweater. The lower quality fibers will respectively end up in a lower cost cashmere garment, and one that will likely pill sooner and to a greater extent.

So, back to our question of suiting…

From a clothing perspective, what you should know is that cashmere isn’t going to have the same body and elasticity that a wool fiber will have. Cashmere makes for a great sweater because the fit isn’t such a big deal, but a suit needs to stand up on its own – it needs to hold its shape.

So, is a cashmere suit a bad idea?

No, of course not. You’ll just need to ensure that the structure of your suit jacket can make up for the lack of body in the fabric (i.e. full canvas construction). This is true for a blazer or sportcoat as well.

Similarly, you will run into some challenges with the pants. You should know that cashmere slacks are going to quickly lose their crease, thereby resulting in a more casual look. They may be too warm, also.

cashmere suit denver

A wool and cashmere blended suit may be the best choice as you’ll gain the benefits of each fabric. Much of what we offer, and frankly what we’d recommend, is a 10% blend (90% wool and 10% cashmere). The cashmere will add warmth and softness while the wool will provide the body and elasticity that a suit needs. It may not seem like a lot of cashmere, but frankly, it’s enough to visibly change the texture of the fabric and add some real warmth (literal and figurative) and softness to the fabric.

Wrap up

Cashmere is a wonderful fabric. Nothing else comes close in terms of softness and comfort. A 100% cashmere suit will be warm, soft, and luxurious, but it may not hold its shape as well as a blend. When shopping for a cashmere suit, consider your budget and the intended use to make a smart decision.

By Ryan Wagner

Further reading

More on cashmere from Wikipedia.

 

Unique suit linings from Bespoke Edge

suit linings from bespoke edge

For some time now, Ron has been searching high and low for some unique suit linings. A task that when you start looking, you begin to realize is not easy.

Fortunately, we made some new contacts during our trip to the Custom Tailors & Designers event in New York last month. And this past week, we received some really amazing jacket lining books.

unique suit linings

Nothing in these books is ordinary. Complex patterns and graphic prints are the norm. Lots of color too.

And remember that with the lining you don’t really have to match it to the jacket. It’s truly your opportunity to exercise your creativity. For instance, if you have a need to build a relatively conservative suit – say, one without accent button holes or fashion forward peak lapels – try choosing a lining that really speaks to your soul!

Personally, I usually go with something with blue as the secondary color since I have an affinity for blue pocket squares. This is my way of subtly referring to my jacket.

But I have been known to throw caution to the wind…

unique suit linings

I’d recommend forgetting all about matching and instead, going for the lining that in a split second makes you say “Wow!”

That’s your lining.

You didn’t choose it, it chose you :).

unique suit linings and unique sportcoat linings

The fabric

The bottom line is that our selection of jacket linings has significantly improved this month. In all, we have over 100 swatches in two books. Many of these lining fabrics are made of the superb Cupro Bemberg material.

Bemberg is a type of rayon that is commonly found inside most high-end bespoke suits. It’s Japanese made and feels a bit like silk, but it’s more breathable and durable than somewhat tear-prone silk. Interestingly, it’s actually made of cotton, but the makeup of the fiber has been changed to give it the unique properties.

Wrap up

Bottom line: If you’re bored of the same old suit linings give us a call today and take a look at some unique suit linings you won’t find anywhere else.

By Ryan Wagner

 

How to build the perfect Scottsdale wedding suit

peaked lapel suit

At Bespoke Edge, it’s safe to say that we know our way around a wedding suit. And although the warm months of summer may be winding down here in the Denver area, our Arizona clients still have several months left of hot weather. Consequently, a lot of folks have been asking us how to build a wedding suit for a Scottsdale wedding.

I want to focus on the Phoenix and Scottsdale area because as we all know, when Phoenicians dress up, they do it very well.

So, with this post, I want to spend some time talking about how to build out the perfect wedding suit to wear in the desert. In my opinion, the perfect Scottsdale wedding suit is one that is both elegant, but cool and ventilated. It’s a fine line to walk, but let me show you how you do it.

Fabric

I’m going to suggest two options: wool or a wool/cashmere blend.

Now, right off the bat, you may be asking, “buy why not cotton or linen, aren’t those your typical choices for a summer sportcoat or suit?” Indeed, cotton or linen can be great summer picks for a jacket. I love the look of a slightly wrinkled linen suit, but here’s the thing, these fabrics are inherently casual. Their texture just isn’t going to be sophisticated enough for a wedding.

Even if you’re planning a casual barnyard-chic event, I still feel that a frumpy-looking cotton or linen suit won’t be dressed up enough.

That being said, let’s take a close look at my two picks.

First up, wool.

Wool is your go-to suit material. But there is wool and then there is wool. The latter can be very breathable (i.e. help keep you cool) and sophisticated at the same time. Furthermore, the right wool will have a very clean and crisp look.

scottsdale wedding

The other fabric pick that I feel is a strong candidate is a wool and cashmere blend. As you probably know, cashmere is a very luxurious and soft yarn. But you probably have a predisposition that it is strictly for keeping warm in cold weather.

Not so.

Trust me when I say that there are some amazing cashmere fabrics that appear to be as thin as linen with a breathability factor that rivals the more traditional fabrics. The reason I suggest a blend with wool is to give the finished fabric a little bit of an elegant sheen and to help with creating a real nice drape.

Construction

When it comes to construction, you have a choice to make.

If you want to keep your suit as breathable as possible, then you’ll want what’s called an “unconstructed” jacket. What this means is that the canvas that usually covers much of a suit is now gone. Therefore, you’re going to stay a lot cooler since there is one less layer involved.

However, this doesn’t mean that the shoulder is completely unpadded. There will still be padding there, but it will be noticeably thinner than what you may be used to wearing. Again, this reduction in material will help to keep you cool.

Taking this unstructured route is your best bet if you tend to get warm easily in your clothes, or if you expect to be out in the sun for any amount of time.

Alternatively, you can go the more traditional route and build your Scottsdale wedding suit with a full canvas. Sartorially speaking, this is the way to go. And this is what a bespoke suit is all about. Integrating an authentic horse hair canvas into your suit will make for an impressive drape, as well as a suit that will last for many years to come.

By the way, here’s a refresher on full canvas versus fused construction if you’d like to learn more.

Bottom line: If staying cool is a priority, then go unstructured. Otherwise, consider a full canvas construction for an amazing looking suit.

Special considerations

If your Scottsdale wedding is poised to be outside for any length of time, you’ll want to do everything you can to stay cool for photos and/or the ceremony. And one more special consideration is the jacket lining.

Sure, you could do away with it entirely, but I think that would be a mistake. In my opinion, nothing makes a jacket look more casual than having no lining whatsoever. However, a lining is rarely made of a very breathable fabric.

Instead, I think you should consider what’s called a “1/8 lining” or “butterfly” lining. This means that the lining is only around the upper back and around the arm hole. This way, that nice wool/cashmere fabric you fell in love with will have a little protection from sweat and it will also facilitate the jacket’s breathability factor.

butterfly-lining

And here are some of our available suit linings to get your creative juices flowing.

scottsdale suit lining

Wrap up

Dressing for an outdoor wedding in the desert doesn’t need to be complicated. Just remember the key points above and you’ll have no problem keeping your cool while looking sharp!

By Ryan Wagner

And remember, Scottsdale is our second home these days. Contact us today to find out when we’ll be there next and we’ll schedule an appointment with you.

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