Archives: scottsdale custom suits

How to build the perfect Scottsdale wedding suit

peaked lapel suit

At Bespoke Edge, it’s safe to say that we know our way around a wedding suit. And although the warm months of summer may be winding down here in the Denver area, our Arizona clients still have several months left of hot weather. Consequently, a lot of folks have been asking us how to build a wedding suit for a Scottsdale wedding.

I want to focus on the Phoenix and Scottsdale area because as we all know, when Phoenicians dress up, they do it very well.

So, with this post, I want to spend some time talking about how to build out the perfect wedding suit to wear in the desert. In my opinion, the perfect Scottsdale wedding suit is one that is both elegant, but cool and ventilated. It’s a fine line to walk, but let me show you how you do it.

Fabric

I’m going to suggest two options: wool or a wool/cashmere blend.

Now, right off the bat, you may be asking, “buy why not cotton or linen, aren’t those your typical choices for a summer sportcoat or suit?” Indeed, cotton or linen can be great summer picks for a jacket. I love the look of a slightly wrinkled linen suit, but here’s the thing, these fabrics are inherently casual. Their texture just isn’t going to be sophisticated enough for a wedding.

Even if you’re planning a casual barnyard-chic event, I still feel that a frumpy-looking cotton or linen suit won’t be dressed up enough.

That being said, let’s take a close look at my two picks.

First up, wool.

Wool is your go-to suit material. But there is wool and then there is wool. The latter can be very breathable (i.e. help keep you cool) and sophisticated at the same time. Furthermore, the right wool will have a very clean and crisp look.

scottsdale wedding

The other fabric pick that I feel is a strong candidate is a wool and cashmere blend. As you probably know, cashmere is a very luxurious and soft yarn. But you probably have a predisposition that it is strictly for keeping warm in cold weather.

Not so.

Trust me when I say that there are some amazing cashmere fabrics that appear to be as thin as linen with a breathability factor that rivals the more traditional fabrics. The reason I suggest a blend with wool is to give the finished fabric a little bit of an elegant sheen and to help with creating a real nice drape.

Construction

When it comes to construction, you have a choice to make.

If you want to keep your suit as breathable as possible, then you’ll want what’s called an “unconstructed” jacket. What this means is that the canvas that usually covers much of a suit is now gone. Therefore, you’re going to stay a lot cooler since there is one less layer involved.

However, this doesn’t mean that the shoulder is completely unpadded. There will still be padding there, but it will be noticeably thinner than what you may be used to wearing. Again, this reduction in material will help to keep you cool.

Taking this unstructured route is your best bet if you tend to get warm easily in your clothes, or if you expect to be out in the sun for any amount of time.

Alternatively, you can go the more traditional route and build your Scottsdale wedding suit with a full canvas. Sartorially speaking, this is the way to go. And this is what a bespoke suit is all about. Integrating an authentic horse hair canvas into your suit will make for an impressive drape, as well as a suit that will last for many years to come.

By the way, here’s a refresher on full canvas versus fused construction if you’d like to learn more.

Bottom line: If staying cool is a priority, then go unstructured. Otherwise, consider a full canvas construction for an amazing looking suit.

Special considerations

If your Scottsdale wedding is poised to be outside for any length of time, you’ll want to do everything you can to stay cool for photos and/or the ceremony. And one more special consideration is the jacket lining.

Sure, you could do away with it entirely, but I think that would be a mistake. In my opinion, nothing makes a jacket look more casual than having no lining whatsoever. However, a lining is rarely made of a very breathable fabric.

Instead, I think you should consider what’s called a “1/8 lining” or “butterfly” lining. This means that the lining is only around the upper back and around the arm hole. This way, that nice wool/cashmere fabric you fell in love with will have a little protection from sweat and it will also facilitate the jacket’s breathability factor.

butterfly-lining

And here are some of our available suit linings to get your creative juices flowing.

scottsdale suit lining

Wrap up

Dressing for an outdoor wedding in the desert doesn’t need to be complicated. Just remember the key points above and you’ll have no problem keeping your cool while looking sharp!

By Ryan Wagner

And remember, Scottsdale is our second home these days. Contact us today to find out when we’ll be there next and we’ll schedule an appointment with you.

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BE Guide: How to choose a fall sportcoat

great fall style with this sportcoat

As I write this, it certainly doesn’t feel much like fall. In fact, it’s 81 deg and the sun is shining. Summer isn’t over yet, thankfully. But that doesn’t mean that you can’t start thinking about your fall clothing needs. Specifically, how to choose a fall sportcoat.

And I admit, it feels a little premature writing about fall sportcoats with summer still in full swing, but I want to make sure you’re ready. By the end of September, you’ll be wishing you had your fall sportcoat hanging in your closet. With our 6 week lead time, now is the time to start planning.

If you’re thinking about treating yourself to a jacket, here’s what you need to know about how to choose a fall sportcoat.

Step 1: Casual or sophisticated?

This first step is the same no matter what item of clothing you’re in the market for. On one end of the spectrum is a casual and thick textured fabric and on the other end, a very fine and clean looking cloth. Somewhere in the middle is the sweet spot of versatility.

Let’s take a look at a couple of examples.

In the image below, we have some very textural fabrics. Without even holding a swatch of the fabric, you have an idea for what it’s going to feel like, don’t you? These are somewhat casual. They will also complement other textural fabrics nicely. For instance, a sportcoat made out of one of these fabrics will hold up nicely against a flannel dress shirt. Also, a very cozy scarf would be a perfect match, adhering to the rule that fabrics should get thicker the farther they are from your body.

fall sportcoat fabric

And on the other hand, we have Brett’s very sophisticated jacket from our Signature Line. It isn’t textural like the options above. Instead, it’s very dressed up with smooth, clean lines. And the blue plaid pattern is subtle yet much defined because of the fidelity of the fabric.

great fall style with this sportcoat

how to choose a fall sportcoat

So, what’s the difference in how you might wear these two jackets? With Brett’s jacket, he needs to be careful that if he pairs it with denim, that they are his best jeans, free of holes or fades, and no fuzz. But if he goes with a nice pair of slacks – even if he were to borrow them from his favorite suit – he’d be dressed nice enough for just about anything.

With the more casual sportcoat, you have a little more margin on the pants. You can wear something a little more rustic and rough around the edges, if you choose. Of course, this isn’t to say that you couldn’t dress it up with a crisp white shirt and pocket square.

Step 2: Construction

You may recall that with summer sportcoats, I advocated for an unstructured coat (i.e. without canvas) to help keep you cool.

With fall sportcoats, I think you have more wiggle room. If you want to keep the jacket lighter and more breathable, you can again have one made without a canvas construction. And when it gets a little too chilly, you can layer up with a sweater.

On the other hand, if you want the best looking drape possible in your coat, then you’ll want to build your fall sportcoat with a full canvas construction.

[Need a refresher on our suit construction – read this]

Step 3: Buttons

Your options are one, two and three buttons. But for a modern look, you’ll want to go with either one or two.

I recommend two, and here’s why: A fall sportcoat is inherently a bit functional. A one button coat is very trendy and errs on the side of a cocktail jacket. This can be a great look with the right fabric, but for an all-around versatile jacket, a two button will carry you through your daily meetings and all the way to date night with ease.

Step 4: Details

There are some notable details that really shine in a fall sportcoat.

First, the fabric beneath the lapel. You probably never even gave it much thought, did you? Here’s why I think it’s a fun thing to customize – because sportcoats are still coats, they keep you warm. And the transitional season of fall here in Colorado can bring with it relatively warm mornings and chilly evenings. So, when the wind kicks up and gives you a chill, pop the lapel and throw on a scarf and gloves. With the lapel up you have a chance to show the world that you thought of everything by choosing a color that refers back to the rest of the jacket, perhaps an accent button stitching.

Secondly, you can add a theater ticket pocket. What’s that, you ask? It’s the third pocket that you (sometimes) see on a suit jacket just above the typical side pockets. Historically, gentlemen would keep their, you guessed it, theater tickets inside that pocket. And since fall is the time of year when we start spending more time indoors and looking for things to do away from the cooling weather, I think a ticket pocket is a nice touch.

Wrap up

So, there you have it. The basics of how to choose a fall sportcoat. I hope this makes the process of building a bespoke jacket a little more approachable.

And as always, let us know if you have any questions, we’re always here to help!

Related reading

The perfect summer sportcoat

Your guide to the summer suit

What is full canvas construction?

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By Ryan Wagner