By Ryan on April 12th, 2017
Custom suiting for men has certainly grown in popularity over the past five years. Many men are discovering the advantages of buying a custom suit or tuxedo that’s made for them, and as individual as their own signature.
As you can imagine, there are many, many attributes of a suit that can be customized when you shop bespoke, but there are four that I would call the tell-tale signs of a bespoke suit. These are subtle things that are almost exclusive to the world of men’s custom clothing.
Obviously, fit is the most important thing. You’ll know a good fit when you see it.
The sleeves will be of an appropriate length, the body shaped and neatly contoured around the torso, and the shoulders right where they should be. Less obvious to the untrained eye, will be that the jacket lapel lays flat on the chest and without a gap between the shirt collar on the back of the neck.
Working sleeve buttonholes (surgeon cuffs) are a throwback to the old days, when all jackets where bespoke and had functional buttonholes on the sleeves.
Historically, military field surgeons wore jackets that they could roll up when helping a wounded soldier in the field. At one point in time, many of these surgeons lived in Saville Row, London. When the tailors moved into the neighborhood, a little cross pollination happened that resulted in working buttonholes becoming the norm on men’s suiting.
Pick stitching is often neglected on off-the-rack suits. It’s labor intensive (when done right) and somewhat difficult to do well. It’s easiest for most manufacturers to simply forget it altogether.
But that’s a shame, because pick stitching is a subtle detail that can really add some life to a men’s jacket. Look for it along the lapel and pocket flaps.
This is something that you have to look closely to see. What you are looking for is that with patterned fabrics (plaids, stripes, etc), do the pockets line up with the rest of the shirt? In other words, was the pocket fabric haphazardly sewn on or was care taken during this process to line up the pattern on the pocket with the rest of the suit or shirt?